Reef Discussion

Susan Bates

Member
Jan 18, 2015
880
117
Where To Next?
Hi, I have done a 10% water change in my 400lt tank every day for 5 consecutive days, I have stop feeding frozen brine shrimp and only feeding every second day and dose no pox every day and still my nitrates have not moved at all, what should i try now?
 

Sam Parker

Moderator
May 6, 2013
4,802
2,397
Geelong
I'd be keeping up with the nopox (following instructions, you will need to very slowly increase the dosage over time), limit feeding as much as possible and keep up with water changes as much as possible.
 

slin1977

Member
Jul 13, 2011
3,476
1,661
Sydney
As a newbie I used Prodibio and then graduated to Zeovit. Both just as effective.
Start with Prodibio or perhaps as quick cheat get Seachem Stability and Prime.
Stability is Bacteria and Prime will eliminate Nitrates
 
E

ezza

Guest
I have the same aquarium as you @Susan Bates. I have discovered a few things that worked for me...

*suction out the overflow compartment as a layer of mud gathers easily down the back and this can be a nitrate pit.

*thin your sand so it can't amass mulm and detritus. I am actually starting to think about removing more sand. Mine is maybe an inch deep.

*don't put sand in the sump. I have some marine pure balls, macroalgae and the skimmer. I also use a biopellet reactor.

*filter socks. I firmly believe that using filter socks under the blue outlet pipe in the sump is why I finally got to keeping SPS alive. I rotate 4 or 5 bags throughout the week. I replace them when they clog up and overflow obviously. Then I rinse them out and soak them in a bucket of bleach and water that lives in the laundry. They catch all the old food and brown scunge that is suspended in the water column. If I don't use them, I see a difference in the corals within a day. It's a very cheap and effective way to mechanically remove water pollution.
 

IJG3145

Member
Oct 27, 2015
442
162
South Gippsland
Hi Susan,

Be aware that the nitrate test kits are intended to be low range test kits, therefore they are all notoriously unreliable at anything above 20 ppm. You may not be able to identify any reduction until you hit the low range.

Also with your feeding schedule, do you feed all at once or across the day, also do you cut flow to the sump during feeding?
 
E

ezza

Guest
Oh! My highest ever nitrate reading was 80ppm, I got down to something like 20 before I started filter socks and the reactor and now I am undetectable.
 

Susan Bates

Member
Jan 18, 2015
880
117
I have the same aquarium as you @Susan Bates. I have discovered a few things that worked for me...

*suction out the overflow compartment as a layer of mud gathers easily down the back and this can be a nitrate pit.

*thin your sand so it can't amass mulm and detritus. I am actually starting to think about removing more sand. Mine is maybe an inch deep.

*don't put sand in the sump. I have some marine pure balls, macroalgae and the skimmer. I also use a biopellet reactor.

*filter socks. I firmly believe that using filter socks under the blue outlet pipe in the sump is why I finally got to keeping SPS alive. I rotate 4 or 5 bags throughout the week. I replace them when they clog up and overflow obviously. Then I rinse them out and soak them in a bucket of bleach and water that lives in the laundry. They catch all the old food and brown scunge that is suspended in the water column. If I don't use them, I see a difference in the corals within a day. It's a very cheap and effective way to mechanically remove water pollution.
how did you get a sock on the pipe? is it possible to see a photo on your sump please
 

Susan Bates

Member
Jan 18, 2015
880
117
Hi Susan,

Be aware that the nitrate test kits are intended to be low range test kits, therefore they are all notoriously unreliable at anything above 20 ppm. You may not be able to identify any reduction until you hit the low range.

Also with your feeding schedule, do you feed all at once or across the day, also do you cut flow to the sump during feeding?
I feed all at once and yes i cut flow
 

Susan Bates

Member
Jan 18, 2015
880
117
As a newbie I used Prodibio and then graduated to Zeovit. Both just as effective.
Start with Prodibio or perhaps as quick cheat get Seachem Stability and Prime.
Stability is Bacteria and Prime will eliminate Nitrates
how often should i dose prodibio and zeovit please
 

slin1977

Member
Jul 13, 2011
3,476
1,661
Sydney
how often should i dose prodibio and zeovit please
I would suggest tracking down Prodibio bacteria at a decent LFS - I can't remember the dose, could have been a vial per week.
This will inoculate the tank with bacteria which will in turn reduce nitrate and phosphate as you dose Nopox

The other alternative is to get a bottle of Zeobac 50ml and ZeoStart 250ml
Dose these as instructed on the bottle.
 

Susan Bates

Member
Jan 18, 2015
880
117
I have the same aquarium as you @Susan Bates. I have discovered a few things that worked for me...

*suction out the overflow compartment as a layer of mud gathers easily down the back and this can be a nitrate pit.

*thin your sand so it can't amass mulm and detritus. I am actually starting to think about removing more sand. Mine is maybe an inch deep.

*don't put sand in the sump. I have some marine pure balls, macroalgae and the skimmer. I also use a biopellet reactor.

*filter socks. I firmly believe that using filter socks under the blue outlet pipe in the sump is why I finally got to keeping SPS alive. I rotate 4 or 5 bags throughout the week. I replace them when they clog up and overflow obviously. Then I rinse them out and soak them in a bucket of bleach and water that lives in the laundry. They catch all the old food and brown scunge that is suspended in the water column. If I don't use them, I see a difference in the corals within a day. It's a very cheap and effective way to mechanically remove water pollution.
this is my sump where would i put the macro algae and what type would you recommend please