Thank you for your reply.Nopox and chemi-pure elite
Ok, will do,I make up ro water, and use red sea coral pro, I don't know if i have a tank journal, I know as much about computers as i do Marine tanks...trying.......how do i do one?Thank you for your reply.
Please remove your chemi pure.
Continue with nopox.
Refrain from dosing reef builder and let your alk drop naturally.
What do you use for salt water NSW or artificial?
Thanks for the info.Ok, will do,I make up ro water, and use red sea coral pro, I don't know if i have a tank journal, I know as much about computers as i do Marine tanks...trying.......how do i do one?
thanks for your help, have removed the chemo-pure elite, so do not use any of this type of thing?Thanks for the info.
I used coral pro salt with great success for a couple of years. Nothing wrong with the salt . I would recommend changing to Red Sea Blue bucket in the future. This mixes at alkalinity of 7dkh compared to Coral pro of 11dkh .
My opinion is based on my experience, running a bacteria driven system like you are with nopox your alk is recommended to be in the range of 6.5 to 8 dkh alkalinity.
I ran my tank within that range and did water changes with coral pro salt , it did not affect the alkalinity too much at a ten to twenty percent water change a week.
Furthermore as a beginner I certainly learnt the hard way by watching my coral loose flesh. I put the flesh loss to high alkalinity at the time in conjunction with phosphate absorption polymer media. These polymers IMO are just too efficient at stripping the water of nutrients.
Bacteria driven systems never recommend the use of phos absorb media as the two combined are too efficient.
You are on the right track with Nopox.
Just need alk to come down to 9 in the next 3 weeks and there after shoot for 8 which could be managed with coral pro.
Depending on how big your tank is will determine how much activated charcoal to use, from memory I would say your tank needs a cup run passively in a mesh bag in the sump. This is standard recommended practice for a bacteria driven system.thanks for your help, have removed the chemo-pure elite, so do not use any of this type of thing?
400lts is the chemo-pure a carbon or not, or should i get another type of carbon, sorry to be so thickDepending on how big your tank is will determine how much activated charcoal to use, from memory I would say your tank needs a cup run passively in a mesh bag in the sump. This is standard recommended practice for a bacteria driven system.
400lts is the chemo-pure a carbon or not, or should i get another type of carbon, sorry to be so thick
can you please recommend a brand i am so sick of making mistakesBacteria driven systems do not recommend the use of GFO as listed in ingredients of chemi pure.
You need to choose a methodology either bacteria or chemical.
Lesley runs GFO successfully in fact extremely well.
I run bacteria at close to natural sea water parameters.
I am sorry if this is a stupid question but is there a difference between alkalinity and kh?Getting your activated carbon right is very important in a reef aquarium,
Having one that is too powerful or dosed incorrect can lead to problems such a tissue necrosis, colour loss in coral or hole in the head in fish.
I don't know if you used too much or too little as diagnosis is hard without a tank journal.
I can't recommend a brand , but I like the shape as pictured earlier compared to this type below. I use the one below in case of emergency.View attachment 54070
Activated charcoal is a complete topic on its own , some are manufactured with coconut shell others from literally the coal face itself. They are all good at making dirt particles stick to them as claimed. They all go through vastly different methods to process the product.
Perhaps ask our members what they use I would be keen to find out too.
Same thing.I am sorry if this is a stupid question but is there a difference between alkalinity and kh?
What test kit are you using?Same thing.
Coolred sea