Reef Discussion

firechild

Member
Nov 8, 2011
354
188
Cromer, Sydney
Who wants a cheap, simple ATO?
I'm about to build myself an ATO and I have 2 options. The first is quite simple and involves using simple panel mount sockets:

ai.ebayimg.com_00_s_Mjk0WDQwMA_____KGrHqJHJFME92BB5b56BPg6S4LsK___60_12.JPG


The second involves having small PCBs made:

ato_pcb.jpg


This will have PCB mounted sockets.

However, the PCBs cost about $30 for 10 which adds a significant amount to the entire project (should be around $40-45 excluding the pump otherwise). So, is there any interest from others in this PCB at $3 each?

Basically the way the design works is the 2 sockets at the bottom are for the power in and power out, the design suits any low voltage pump (such as 12 or 24V AC or DC) while the 3 at the top are for float switches.
Position 1 is the primary foat switch, this is set at the desired water level and operates while the water level is below the switch. This means the pump is on when the water level is low and switches off when it reaches the correct level.
Position 2 is a secondary switch which operates in the same way as the primary. The switch is on when the water level is below the switch. This is set above the primary and is used in case of failure of the primary. In normal operation, the secondary will always be on, leaving the switching to the primary.
Position 3 is for a float switch in the reservoir. It works the reverse of the other 2 (i.e. it switch OFF when the water level drops). This switch is positioned at the bottom of the reservoir and is used to switch the pump off if the water level drops too low, preventing the pump from running dry and subsequently burning out.

The float switches are around $10 each and just need to be wired to an appropiate plug.
 

firechild

Member
Nov 8, 2011
354
188
Cromer, Sydney
I guess I could do that, provided my one works. ;)

Actually the idea of this design is the various components will simply plug into a small box like you would plug in any low voltage equipment to a power supply.
 

firechild

Member
Nov 8, 2011
354
188
Cromer, Sydney
Ok, looks like enough interest for me to go ahead, I should be able to offload any remaining boards at this rate. I'm going to pick up one of the jiffy boxes this weekend and I'll finalise the details of the PCB and send the design off for manufacture. It takes about a month and once I recieve them, I'll put together a pictorial instruction so people can put them together.
 

firechild

Member
Nov 8, 2011
354
188
Cromer, Sydney
Any low voltage pump will work. I'm looking at a small Pond One Pondmaster (750L/hr), mainly because it has a really long cable which will suit my setup but really anything that is low voltage will be suitable. Even at that size though, it could drain the reservoir pretty quickly. I'll probably put a timer on mine so that it will only activate for a minute or 2 every hour or so. Another option is to use a 12V peristaltic pump but my only concern there would be longevity, they're usually not rated for a lot of hours.
 

firechild

Member
Nov 8, 2011
354
188
Cromer, Sydney
I've found the DC jacks in a lot of 5 (how convenient) and can order them at the same time as the PCBs (I can even solder them to the PCBs for anyone who would prefer that) so can we please start a list of what people actually want what components.

For example:

1. firechild - 1x PCB with sockets, soldered
2.
3.
 

macca_75

Member
Apr 22, 2012
2,125
844
Not the cheapest option, but you can buy the Tunze pump from their ATO as a spare part. Low voltage, reliable, long cord, readily available, etc. given your controller looks to be so cheap it would still make a really cheap great ATO solution.
 

Joshwaaaa

Member
Jul 22, 2011
1,326
634
1. firechild - 1x PCB with sockets, soldered
2. Joshwaaaa- 1x PCB with sockets, soldered
3.