Reef Discussion
It's actually interesting how 1 kg B powder to be dissolved to 10L ... this makes it bang-for-buck solution ..
but not quite the same with A.
1 kg A powder to be dissolved to 1.8L .... if we are to compare with 5L ready-made jug, the savings is not so much, especially for all the hard work (having to mix etc etc).
but not quite the same with A.
1 kg A powder to be dissolved to 1.8L .... if we are to compare with 5L ready-made jug, the savings is not so much, especially for all the hard work (having to mix etc etc).
The A mixes fine in a coke bottle and you can usually even make it stronger than the directions.
The B I struggle to get that concentration with the shaking method, I have a 1.5l dosing tube (but you could cut the top off a 2l bottle.
I then stick a 6015 in there and mix it for 5 mins.
With this method, I have found you will not only be able to get it per the instructions but even stronger if you so wish.
The B I struggle to get that concentration with the shaking method, I have a 1.5l dosing tube (but you could cut the top off a 2l bottle.
I then stick a 6015 in there and mix it for 5 mins.
With this method, I have found you will not only be able to get it per the instructions but even stronger if you so wish.
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I was just made realized that the powdered solution is triple time weaker than the ready-made liquid bottle. I need to figure out cost wise if it's still works out cheaper and if it's still worth the effort.
If I'm going to follow the manual, B won't be possible by coke bottle and shake method as it requires to be dissolved in 10L water, so it needs to be mixed in some sort of bucket container.
2L coke bottle is perfect for A, as it only needs 1.8L of water however my only concern now is the heat emission from this mixture. So @Sean81 you confirmed this, so did Aviad from Red Sea. He even thinks that the coke bottle might even melt; he suggested to cool the water to almost freeze point.
It won't melt the coke bottle but it will seize a power head, if in doubt just add 100gms at a time, dissolve and let it cool or I just dump it all in without mixing it and let it sit for 15 mins and give it a stir up at this point.
The B works out a lot cheaper than the bottles and you do not need to mix up the whole lot in one go, there is a 20gm scoop in there, just 5 of those per liter.
Having said that and having used the red sea stuff for 5 years and changing over to the stuff 100% reef safe sells, there is no difference between their b mix and the bicarb 100% sells.
The A mix has strontium in it and there does seem to be some benefit in that, the c mix is also a mix of Mg chloride and sulfate so it seems to keep your ionic balance better than using epson salts, but you can follow randys revised mix to fix this.
The B works out a lot cheaper than the bottles and you do not need to mix up the whole lot in one go, there is a 20gm scoop in there, just 5 of those per liter.
Having said that and having used the red sea stuff for 5 years and changing over to the stuff 100% reef safe sells, there is no difference between their b mix and the bicarb 100% sells.
The A mix has strontium in it and there does seem to be some benefit in that, the c mix is also a mix of Mg chloride and sulfate so it seems to keep your ionic balance better than using epson salts, but you can follow randys revised mix to fix this.
Thanks @NiCd I'll also suss out 100% reef safe's Bicarb
@NiCd (or anyone else) have you tried their (100%ReefSafe) Amino Acid? I heard good raves about it.
I currently used reef roids; in the long run, it is also expensive so thinking to switch.
I currently used reef roids; in the long run, it is also expensive so thinking to switch.
I have used the aminos when tank sitting jammos tank and it's easy to use and I suspect jamo has a lot of other things going on but his tank is one of the best in Australia hands down.
Havings said that whilst they are both foods they act in different ways, aminos are absorbed through the water column as dissolved nutrients where reef roids are suspended particles that captured/filtered out of the water column.
If you have an abundance of fish poop, no need for either really. If you have gonis or gorgs then reef roids will be needed but less so aminos.
If you are looking for cheaper alternatives check out http://www.reefculture.com.au/ and give aqua pearls or some of the micro algae's a go.
Havings said that whilst they are both foods they act in different ways, aminos are absorbed through the water column as dissolved nutrients where reef roids are suspended particles that captured/filtered out of the water column.
If you have an abundance of fish poop, no need for either really. If you have gonis or gorgs then reef roids will be needed but less so aminos.
If you are looking for cheaper alternatives check out http://www.reefculture.com.au/ and give aqua pearls or some of the micro algae's a go.
A quick read on amino's
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2015/5/corals
what it doesn't go into is what aminos are introduced through the fish waste as this would be species and food dependent, so don't go thinking just because you are not directly adding an amino supplement that you are not adding them through other sources and it seems still yet to be established if the benefit is through the blooming of water born bacteria that is then injected or the direct absorption of the aminos. If it is the former then essentially any amino could be added and the bacteria converts it into a complete food source.
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2015/5/corals
what it doesn't go into is what aminos are introduced through the fish waste as this would be species and food dependent, so don't go thinking just because you are not directly adding an amino supplement that you are not adding them through other sources and it seems still yet to be established if the benefit is through the blooming of water born bacteria that is then injected or the direct absorption of the aminos. If it is the former then essentially any amino could be added and the bacteria converts it into a complete food source.
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