@Azedenkae - please mate can you stop pretending you know about marine aquariums.Hey mate!
Once all the parameters you are aiming to get to zero hit zero, or close enough, you need to check that your aquarium is able to return to that state after a reasonable amount of time after each feeding.
To do this, well, you need to 'pretend' that you are feeding your livestock by well, 'feeding' the tank that much food (a daily amount), and see if the parameters can lower to zero (or close enough) within 24 hours. If it can, then that means that your aquarium has undergone the initial cycle. If it can't, it means that further cycling is necessary.
Once you are done with the cycle, I'd recommend a big water change - as large as you can make it. Things may have built up during the cycle that you can't test for, so a big water change is just a safe practice. Give your tank some freshness.
And once that is done, test parameters again to make sure everything is in place. Then stock your aquarium.
Okay how about this, do tell me exactly why you disagree with what I said? It's easy enough to say 'I disagree', but why do you disagree?@Azedenkae - please mate can you stop pretending you know about marine aquariums.
I disagree with every statement above.
Please back your advice/ claims by posting photo evidence that you have maintained a marine aquarium and we can take you seriously.
Thanks mate
How about this - start a new thread - tag me and we can discuss this and other statements of advice you wish to share.Okay how about this, do tell me exactly why you disagree with what I said? It's easy enough to say 'I disagree', but why do you disagree?
I'll collate evidence on my side, but would love to hear why you think I am wrong as well.
Who does this? I have never come across this method.Once all the parameters you are aiming to get to zero hit zero, or close enough, you need to check that your aquarium is able to return to that state after a reasonable amount of time after each feeding.
To do this, well, you need to 'pretend' that you are feeding your livestock by well, 'feeding' the tank that much food (a daily amount), and see if the parameters can lower to zero (or close enough) within 24 hours. If it can, then that means that your aquarium has undergone the initial cycle. If it can't, it means that further cycling is necessary.
You need 0 ammoniaSo I'm about to head into week three of my cycling.
My tank is going well, ammonia low, and nitrite low and salt fine too.
As my tank begins to end cycling what should I do and/or add?
Well, advice that @Azedenkae Is trying to suggest is go slowly. A small bio load is recommended for a new aquarium as each month goes by a little bit more can be added.
A population of bacteria that can sustain your feeding fish food to fish waste disposal will develop. Hence filtering the water of nitrates. As he mentioned these levels should approach zero each month.
A recommendation especially for newbies to reefing is to add no more than one fish per month. This gives the bacteria filtration time to catch up and develop so that a new tank or tank shock syndrome does not occur.
If you wish get a pair of clowns. But as mentioned no more than one fish per month.
Doing things slowly will prevent the outbreak of ICH.
Without picking apart his advice too much I recommend no more than a partial water change of say 20 percent at the end of your cycle.
As for the life of me I can't say that there would be anything left in the water that would do any harm , right?
The above is old school advice , the new more reliable way is to feed and grow your bacteria through carbon dosing and not via fish food.
We can leave it at that for now.
Last time I had ICH in my house / tank was 6 years ago.Great advice! Never heard about the one fish idea. But it makes biological and biochemical sense (coming from a pharmacology graduate) haha!